MONSTERA

Monstera is a diverse group of vining aroids containing about 49 species, which are endemic to Mexico and Panama. They are vigorous growers and are one of the most iconic and loved houseplants on the market. Monstera are rewarding to grow, as they are easy to care for and are quick to size up their leaves. They typically go through major phenotypic changes as the leaves grow from their juvenile form to their mature form. Juvenile leaves, in most species of monstera, tend to have few or no fenestrations (splits in the leaves). Mature foliage can grow to have large fenestrations, alongside holes down the midrib of the leaf. In the current houseplant market, there are quite a few species that are actively cultivated. The most common two are Monstera deliciosa and Monstera adansonii, and will be the plants we cover care for in the following article.  

Monstera deliciosa are characterized by broad, heart-shaped leaves that emerge with splits and holes as the plant matures. Their leaves can eventually grow to be 3-4’ across, with the plants themselves able to climb as high as 50’–although they do not typically reach this size indoors. They do not look like vining plants when young, but they develop a thick vining stem over time. Happy M. deliciosa will quickly send out long aerial roots as they grow, especially when given a support (like a wooden plank, moss pole, or trellaise) to climb. These roots are used in nature to help the plant climb and access auxiliary water and nutrient sources. When these aerial root systems are developed, M. deliciosa can easily survive becoming completely detached from their soil roots. In our indoor spaces, the aerial roots can be directed back into the soil, or can be diverted into a vase of water to help the plant hydrate itself and grow more quickly. 

Monstera adansonii have long vines that can be grown trailing or climbing, with oblong holes that form throughout the leaf with maturity. If grown as a trailing plant, they typically remain in their juvenile form meaning they have smaller leaves (3-6” long) and fewer or sometimes no holes throughout the leaves. When grown as a climbing plant, M. adansonii foliage can reach 12”-18”. Compared to the M. deliciosa, M. adansonii has thinner leaves and prefers slightly higher humidity, and may need it in order to produce larger fully mature leaves.

WATERING & SOIL

Like many aroids, monstera grow as epiphytes in their natural environment. This means that they tend to grow up trees, and sometimes even rockface. This environmental condition, which allows a lot of oxygen to access the roots of the plant, indicates that monstera do not need to remain moist at all times. They will prefer drying out between waterings, and can tolerate drought well indoors. When watering a monstera, be sure to saturate it completely. They will also appreciate a shower about once a month to remove any dust settling on the large leaves. This also helps to deter pests!

Monstera prefer a soil substrate that is light and airy with plenty of amendments added, as they can easily rot in heavy peat mixes. Some recommended amendments would be orchid bark, lava stone, pumice, or perlite. Monstera can also be potted into cactus mix if a premade mix is preferred. The goal is to use a substrate that drains and dries efficiently. An easy test for the soil is to take a handful of dry soil and compact it in your hand by making a tight fist. When you open it, the soil should fall loosely, and not hold its shape. If it stays together, it is likely too dense and needs more aeration. 

LIGHTING

Monstera can tolerate a wide range of lighting conditions, though they will not reach maturity in lower light. Monstera can be placed in full sun indoors, and will also do well with partial or bright-indirect light. This means they will grow best within a few feet of an East, South, or West facing window. Monstera will not typically grow well in a Northern exposed window, and will produce small, immature leaves and stretch their stems over time, which happens when not receiving enough light. 

An additional note, when growing monstera indoors they tend to position their leaves towards their light source, even if they are getting plenty of light. If a more balanced shape is preferred, you can rotate the plant regularly or supplement with direct overhead lighting. 

FERTILIZER

Monstera can be heavy feeders when they are growing, as they often grow quickly. A balanced fertilizer or fertilizer formulated for healthy foliage growth is ideal. In the growing season (Spring, Summer, Fall) or whenever your plant is producing new growth, you can feed it. If using liquid fertilizer, apply about every other watering according to the instructions on your fertilizer. While they can be fed every watering, it is recommended the fertilizer be extra diluted (about half the amount of whatever the fertilizer instructions recommend) to prevent possible fertilizer burn.

SPECIAL NOTES 

Monstera are considered to be fast growing houseplants, and this goes for their foliage as well as their root systems. Monstera root systems should be checked yearly, preferably in the spring, to see if they need a larger pot. A common sign of a root-bound plant is that it is drying out its substrate much more quickly than it used to. If this occurs, take a look at the root system and see if it is ready for a pot upsize. If it is, the roots will be tightly wound and there will not be a lot of soil visible. We recommend keeping it in a nursery pot, and uppotting to another nursery pot when it is time. If you want to use a ceramic or terracotta pot, make sure that the opening is not smaller than the widest point in the pot–they can be extremely difficult to remove from these types of pots without damaging the roots and/or breaking the pot.  

Monstera love to climb, which they do in nature to reach higher light. Monstera tend to grow more quickly and produce larger leaves when allowed to climb. In an indoor setting, monstera are good candidates for moss poles, stakes, or wooden plank supports. When staking a monstera, make sure that the nodes of the plant are positioned to have their aerial roots facing their support. Otherwise, they will not be able to easily climb or adhere to the provided support.