PEPEROMIA
PEPEROMIA
The genus Peperomia is incredibly varied; some species grow upright, trail, climb or crawl; some have intricate variegated patterns on their leaves, deep veining, or rich green leaves with burgundy backs. Due to the sheer breadth and diversity of the genus, and the fact that many species are almost indiscernible from one another, the amount of species can only be estimated. It is thought that there are over 1000 species of Peperomia, all native to Central and South America. These numbers make Peperomia one of the two largest genus in the Piperaceae family. The other largest is Piper, the family that includes common black pepper (Piper nigrum), making them close cousins. In fact, one of the common names for Peperomia obtusifolia is actually pepper face plant due to how similar it looks to Piper nigrum.
One of their more ubiquitous common names, radiator plant, is derived from the many species of peperomia that stay small and compact–small enough to easily live on a radiator! This makes them great choices for indoor spaces without a ton of extra room for plants to spread out.
Peperomia are also, unlike most other tropical plants, dog and cat safe! This makes them great for surfaces and window sills that curious pets frequent.
Care can vary from species to species, but a good rule of thumb for peperomia is the more succulent the leaf, the more it will prefer to dry out. The following will be generalized peperomia care, keeping in mind it may need to be tweaked slightly species to species.
LIGHT
Peperomia are not demanding when it comes to light, and will actually burn if placed in light that is too high or direct. In their native habitats, peperomia are often found growing in shady crevices across jungle floors.
In an indoor environment Peperomia like to live in bright ambient light, typically preferring no direct light. They can be pulled back from windows that receive direct sun and will be content perched on North facing window sills.
If a peperomia has red on the underside of the leaf, that usually means it will be even more suited to medium to low light than other varieties. The red color is thought to reflect light back into their leaves, helping them grow in lower light conditions by using sunlight more efficiently.
Variegated varieties will always want slightly higher light than non-variegated varieties to maintain their variegation, as their leaves have less chlorophyll. If these variegated varieties are not getting enough light, the plant may revert back to green. If you notice a variegated variety losing its color, try moving it to a brighter spot.
WATERING
Overwatering is one of the main issues folks have when growing peperomia as they are incredibly susceptible to root and stem rot. While they are not succulents in the traditional sense, they are succulent plants with fleshy leaves and stems that store excess water. Most peperomia can tolerate, and prefer, drying out their soil at least 25-50% between waterings. Varieties such as Peperomia obtusifolia (aka “Baby Rubber Plant”), which have thick leaves and stems, will need to be watered much less frequently than, say, Peperomia caperata, which has much thinner leaves and stems. If you are unsure of when to water a peperomia you can wait for the leaves at the base of the plant to feel thin and bendy. When a peperomia is well watered the leaves are turgid and will easily snap under pressure, so if they are flexible that means the plant has started to use up stored water.
REPOTTING
Peperomia despise being repotted, especially once they have established root systems, so it is not advised to repot these plants. Most peperomia will have some kind of dieback when repotted, so it is only recommended to repot healthy peperomia that are extremely tight in their pots and experiencing stress, or were somehow potted into a pot that is much too large for them and they are at risk for rot. Peperomia are fine in the same pot for years at a time, if not their entire lifespan.
If you must repot a peperomia, it is most successful if the roots are not disturbed. They have extremely thin, fine root systems that are easily broken when repotting. To repot with minimal damage, take the plant out of its current pot, set it directly into a slightly larger pot, and backfill. Do not tease the roots out.
It can be helpful to soak the substrate in water prior to any repotting that may disrupt their roots in the event the plant is hard to remove from its planter.
PROPAGATION
Uniquely, peperomia can be propagated from almost every part of the plant. New plants can grow from stem cuttings, petiole cuttings, and can even propagate from just a leaf cutting as long as it has a vein running through it. Stem or petiole cuttings can be rooted easily in water, while leaf cuttings are easiest to root in substrate. Propagations are most successful in high humidity, so using some kind of humidity dome can be helpful.
FERTILIZING
Peperomia are not heavy feeders, and do not require regular fertilization. When fertilizing, a basic balanced houseplant fertilizer is suitable and can be applied monthly.
PESTS
These plants are specifically susceptible to pests like mealy bugs, but are overall quite pest resistant.
COMMON CONCERNS
Pale Leaves: If your peperomia is getting pale leaves, it is likely getting too much light. Try moving into lower light, and see if the leaves green up.
Root Rot: Peperomia are extremely susceptible to root rot. If the plant is wilting after being watered or the stems start turning brown and mushy, it is likely a sign that it is suffering from root rot. Most peperomia will need to be propagated in order to be saved once root rot has set in. To help prevent this, only water the plant when the soil is sufficiently dry. However, do make sure that it is not sitting too long without water either. Peperomia can suffer from “dry rot”, which means that the roots dry up when they are without water for too long and are no longer viable. When the plant is watered the next time the plant does not have roots to take up water, and the stems begin to rot.
Flowers: Peperomia are generally prolific bloomers, though their flowers don’t look like what we expect flowers to look like. Rather, they grow long, thin stalks that have dozens of tiny florets up and down the spike. These flowers are not essential to the plant’s health, so they can be easily clipped off if they are unwanted.
Leaves Growing in Malformed: This is often a sign of underwatering or low humidity. Across the board, peperomia grow optimally in humidity above 65%. Most varieties on the market can handle lower household humidity, though they may grow slower. If you have a peperomia with stunted growth, new growth that is ripping, or deformed leaves, try upping the humidity.