SANSEVERIA
Snake plants are a resilient group of plants native to Madagascar, Southern Asia, and across the African continent, and are members of the Asparagaceae (asparagus) family. They exist in a variety of forms and growth habits, though they typically boast broad, robust foliage that can withstand varied environmental conditions, including low light and periods of drought. With about 60 species and many hybrids to choose from, it is easy to find a snake plant to add to any indoor space. They are excellent plants for beginners, chronic under-waterers, or for folks who are sometimes away from their plants for weeks at a time.
Recently the genus snake plants belonged to, Sansevieria, was incorporated into the genus Dracaena, due to genetic similarities and their nearly identical floral structures and fruit. Snake plants, like other Dracaena, send up flower stalks with small clusters of delicate white blooms. They typically open and become more fragrant at night, as they are pollinated by moths in nature, then close up during the day. The fragrance is described as similar to Jasmine, and can be quite potent in small spaces. If successfully pollinated, the flowers will produce little red or orange berries. While many prefer the name Sansevieria, the classification and naming of Dracaena, described in 1767, predates the classification and naming of Sansevieria, described in 1794. When the genus were combined, the older name took precedence.
The care between varieties of Dracaena varies, so in this care sheet we will focus on the ones known as snake plants, formerly Sansevieria.
WATERING & LIGHT
Snake plants are some of the only plants that do well in low light. Many plants will tolerate low light for a few months or years, but snake plants can live in low light full time, for many years–as long as they are allowed to dry fully between watering’s.
When a snake plant is in low light the time between watering’s is much longer than a plant that is getting higher light, and it is more susceptible to root rot. Some folks only water their low light snake plants every 4-6 weeks, which makes them an incredibly low maintenance addition to any dim corner. The trade off for putting a snake plant in low light is, however, that they are unlikely to grow quickly and new foliage can take months to fully harden off. If you are planning on putting a snake plant in low light, it is a good idea to purchase one that is about the size you want it to be. And remember, low light is not no light!
That said, snake plants do well in many different medium to high light conditions, and can even be easily acclimated to full sun. Ideally, snake plants want bright indirect light throughout the day, with a few hours of direct light in the morning or evening.
When watering make sure to check the soil first! The soil should be completely dry before watering, then should be saturated with a deep drink. It is a good idea to clean the foliage at the same time, as the leaves tend to collect dust
SOIL & FERTILIZER
Snake plants prefer well-draining soil that dries out quickly, with plenty of perlite, pumice, and sand. Cactus mixes are usually a good option for snake plants. Steer clear of soil that holds onto a lot of moisture, as they can cause issues with root rot and may prevent oxygen from getting to the root system. Snake plants are particularly susceptible to rot, as they grow rhizomatically. Basically, this means they send out tubers that develop pups that can eventually be separated and grown as an individual plant. If the rhizomes stay too wet, they can start to rot, and this rot can quickly travel through the entire plant.
Due to their slow growth habits, snake plants are not heavy feeders. If plants have recently been purchased or repotted, they typically do not need to be fed for at least 9-12 months. After that, snake plants do well with a quarterly feed, using a balanced liquid foliar fertilizer.
REPOTTING
Does your snake plant need to be repotted? Probably not! Snake plants do not need to be repotted frequently, and many folks will actually experience a bit of foliage dieback when they do. We’d recommend keeping snake plants in their nursery pots for at least a few years (if not more), until the plant has completely filled the pot with roots and foliage, or the plant has broken free of its nursery pot.
If repotting, make sure that the pot has drainage holes and the opening of the pot is not smaller than the widest point, particularly if you are potting into ceramic or terracotta–it can be extremely difficult to extract them from these types of containers without damaging the plant and/or the container. Also, as mentioned previously, snake plants can and often do break their containers, including ceramic ones. Make sure that you are not directly potting them into containers that you will be sad to see go!
If you want to put a snake plant in a special decorative pot, we recommend keeping them in a nursery pot and staging it in the decorative container. This helps ensure your plant and pot coexist happily!
DISEASE/PEST PRESSURES
Snake plants are at heightened risk of developing a type of fungal leaf spot, often referred to as rust. Rust is a common name for a huge host of different fungi that are uniquely specialized to infect a specific host, where they feed specifically on healthy tissue. This means the fungus can spread through a plant quickly, as it does not linger in one spot for long. It can appear as organgy or brown colored spots on the leaves that tend to be squishy and can feel wet to the touch. Due to the fungi’s specialization, the infection is typically contagious only to other snake plants. Be sure to cut out any affected leaves quickly if you notice leaf spots. If the spots are fully dry, and the plant looks healthy, it may no longer be actively infected. However, it is still recommended these leaves be pruned off. To help combat it after pruning, a fungicide can be applied to the leaves, and hydrogen peroxide solution can be used on the soil and roots.
Sansevieria are not prone to many pest pressures, but can occasionally contract pests like mealy bug or scale. Keep an eye on the foliage, and remove any suspicious bumps or bugs. Keeping the foliage clean and dusted is helpful in preventing pests.